Dressing With Etiquette (Part VII)

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Continuing this style review, we'll look at proper ball wear, circa 1918:

Ball costume is conventionally gay and elaborate, the lightest of materials being used, especially by those who intend to take part in the dancing, and a dainty effect being sought.  Any costly, rich-looking materials are used, and a wide range of fashion is permitted. The gown is cut short-sleeved and decollete, and the dancing shoes are of satin or very fine kid. Jewels are worn but sparingly by young women in their first season in society. The costume of a debutante at her first ball is usually white.

Sunday School: Dressing With Etiquette Part VI

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Back in 1918, there were even etiquette rules for the proper attire when going to church:

For church wear, a quiet, rather simple street dress, which does not proclaim that either money or time has been spent upon it to any notable extent, is by far the most appropriate.  The suit should be becoming but inconspicuous.

From: The Etiquette of To-day, Edith Ordway (1918)

Saturday Scrub-Up: Caring for Clothes

Continuing with the theme of dress, today's post focuses on laundering tips (note that these are not actual tips for use, but for amusement. I don't suggest trying them :) ).

When Starching and Wringing Clothes: Instead of burning your hands wringing clothes out of hart starch, put them in one of the tubs, pour the starch over them and run them through the wringer.  When the clothes are dry on the line turn the fine spray of the hose quickly and gently over the ones you want dampened for ironing, roll them up as you take them down and they are all ready for you. 

To Make Gloves Go On Easily: So that doeskin gloves may be put on easily after washing, place a clothespin in each finger and thumb when you hang the gloves to dry.

To Prevent Color From Running: To set the color of a sweater or middy blouses with red collar and cuffs wash carefully and rinse in clear water.  Rinse the garment in a pail of water containing a cupful of white vinegar, hang up carefully and do not fold.  Dampen with a sponge when ironing.  Leaves the color only where it belongs.

Sew Missing Buttons On While Ironing: Keep a needle, thread, and some buttons at the end of your board when you iron. It is so much quicker to sew a missing button on right away than to let heaps of mending stack up. 

Washing Fringed Articles: In washing anything with fringe on, always shake fringe out well before hanging up to dry and you'll find you need not comb it out. 

Bleaching Clothes With Eggshells: Save your eggshells and, when washing your clothes, put eggshells in a white cloth bag and drop into your boiler. This will make and excellent bleach for your clothes.

From: Household Hints Published By The Chicago Daily News, 1930

Dressing with Etiquette (Part V): Ladies Who Lunch

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Today's 5th installment in the series of Dressing With Etiquette, 1918 looks at the appropriate attire for an afternoon tea:

As hostess at an afternoon reception or luncheon one may wear an elaborate gown of the richest materials, with either long sleeves and high neck, or elbow sleeves and slightly low neck. As guest one may wear a walking suit, with pretty blouse, white gloves, and decorative hat. 

The usual dress for a formal breakfast is much the same as for a luncheon,- a pretty afternoon street costume, with a dainty blouse, gloves, and "picture" hat, which is not removed.  In summer, a gown of light material, such as organdie, muslin, or other soft goods, dainty and somewhat elaborate, is in good taste.  Hat and gloves are invariably worn with this gown if the affair is ceremonious.

From: The Etiquette of To-day, Edith Ordway (1918).

Dressing with Etiquette (Part IV): Evening Gowns

http://dameboudicca.blogspot.com/2008/04/fashion-of-week-evening-dress-1910.html

Now that we've covered the basics, we'll move on to specific costumes for specific periods of day (in 1918).  Our first focus is on evening dress:

Full evening dress demands one's most elaborate gown, made of silk, satin, velvet, lace, or crepe-de-chine, as costly as one's purse permits, with decollete effects, gained by either actual cut or the use of lace and chiffon.  One should wear delicate shoes, white or light-colored gloves, and appropriate jewels, of which it is not good taste to have too lavish a display.

From:  The Etiquette of To-Day, Edith Ordway (1918)

Dressing with Etiquette (Part III): The Housewife

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Our third look at dressing with etiquette (circa 1918) focuses on the counter-part to the women who work hard at business-- the women who work hard at home:

 The housewife needs, in her choice of morning garments, the same effectiveness as the business woman, for she must also work with real efficiency; but, in addition, she needs to give the impression of home-like abandon, as well as beauty and grace, which shall appear restful.

Dressing with Etiquette (Part II): The Businesswoman's Attire

7http://www.thebespokenfor.net/ronsfashionlife/2009/05/index.html

In the second installment of our review of proper fashion (at least from 1918), we'll see what a business woman should strive to wear:

[T]he business woman, in business hours, dresses with that same effort after efficiency and economy of time and strength that she has put into her business to make it successful.  She is, therefore, besides being scrupulously neat, perfectly plainly and yet durably and comfortably dressed...She permits no fussing with her garments, therefore they have to be in perfect working order, as fussing takes time, and time is money.  Her hair is done neatly, and as becomingly as possible, but securely for the day. 

If, on the other hand, the business woman be a milliner, whose own artistic personality must be her best advertisement, she takes pains to dress artistically even though she wear less serviceable and more elaborate costumes.

From: The Etiquette of To-Day, Edith Ordway (1918).

Dressing with Etiquette (Part I)

http://kitchenretro.wordpress.com/2008/05/01/pictorial-review-fashions-summer-1918/

A proper lady does not only act correctly, but dress correctly (according to an etiquette guide from 1918.  However, dressing correctly is not as easy as it may seem.  This week, we shall review how to dress correctly (1918 style):

Dress is...essential.  By this is not meant a rigid adherence to fashion, -the stamp of a weak mind, -or even good taste, but an eye to the appropriate and fitting.  First of all, dress should be subordinated to character, that is, it should be no  more costly than the wearer can afford, and no more striking than modesty and good taste allow. 

Good taste in dress means plain and simple styles, but material as elegant, serviceable, and pleasing as one's purse permits.   It means also a few things well chosen and kept in good order, rather than many things more or less untidy; that one's wardrobe will be harmonious, - not a cheap, shabby garment to-day, and an expensive, showy one to-morrow...

One should not mix one's wardrobe.  A coat of one suit and the skirt of another should not be worn together.  A carriage parasol should not be used on a sunny promenade, nor an umbrella in a carriage, or open automobile.

It is necessary to wear a dress appropriate to the occasion in order to be well dressed.  No matter how excellent one's costume may be, if it does not suit the time and place it is absurd and incongruous.  Some of the major rules for appropriate dress are as follows.....

 From: The Etiquette of To-Day, Edith Ordway (1918)